The history of Great Dane
Before more than two centuries ago the Great Dane was known under other names such as: Bismarck Dane, Tiger Striped Dane, English Dane, Danish Dane and Ulm Dog.
Ancestors of contemporary Dane are old Bullenbeisers (dogs that caught bulls for their legs), and dogs used for chase and hunt of big game. Breeders of that time were striving to find the middle between a strong mastiff of the English variety and a speedy and movable greyhound.
Under the name “DANE”, the big and strong dog that did not belonged to no known variety, was understood. Few decades later, it was marked by names as: Danish Dane or Ulm Dog or the Great Dane.
There were different types of these dogs, if we look at a colour and size, until the year 1878 when a meeting was held in Berlin of a group of seven members under the sponsorship of Dr. BODINUS, and this group issued the first official document where all varieties of contemporary Dane were listed and included into the name ”GREAT DANE”.
Within the framework of the exhibition in Berlin in the year 1880, for the first time the standard of the Great Dane was officially introduced.
The Great Dane is an elegant dog of an impressive constitution, strong, and many people consider it formidable, but very gentle and loyal to the family with which it lives.
It can be entrusted with a small child with a full confidence, as it is very caring, attentive and protective dog. Because of this quality it is capable to develop friendly relations with small dog breeds. Towards strangers it is restrained and careful, but it will welcome family friends with unhidden joy.
Recognized colours for the Great Dane are: black, harlequin, yellow, tiger striped and blue.
The Great Dane standard
FCI-Standard N° 235 / 09. 08. 2002 / GB
GREAT DANE (Deutsche Dogge)
TRANSLATION: Mrs. C. Seidler, revised by Mrs R. Sporre-Willes and E. Peper.
UTILIZATION: Companion, watch- and guard dog.
Group 2: Pinscher and Schnauzer – Molossoid breeds – Swiss Mountain and Cattle Dogs and other breeds.
Section 2.1:Molossoid breeds, Mastiff type. Without working trial.
Brief Historical Summary
As forerunners of the present day Great Dane, one must look at the old “Bullenbeisser” (Bulldog) as well as the “Hatz-and Saurüden” (Hunting and wild boar hounds), which were midway between the strong Mastiff of English type and the fast, handy Greyhound.
The term Dogge was at first understood to mean a large, powerful dog, not of any particular breed. Later, particular names such as Ulmer Dogge, English Dogge, Great Dane, Hatzrüde (Hunting Dog), Saupacker (boarfinder) and Grosse Dogge (Great Dogge), classified these dogs according to colour and size.
In the year 1878 a Committee of seven was formed in Berlin, consisting of active breeders and judges with Dr. Bodinus in the chair, which made the decision to classify all the forenamed varieties as « Deutsche Doggen » (Great Danes). Thus the foundation was laid for the breeding of a separate German breed.
In the year 1880, on the occasion of a show in Berlin, the first standard for the Deutsche Dogge was laid down. This standard has been taken care of since the year 1888 by the “Deutsche Doggen Club 1888 e.V.” (German Doggen Club, registered Club 1888) and frequently been revised over the years. The present Standard meets the requirements of the F.C.I.
The Great Dane in his noble appearance combines a large, powerful well constructed body with pride, strength and elegance. By substance together with nobility, harmonious appearance, well proportioned outlines, as well as a specially expressive head, the Great Dane strikes the onlooker as a noble statue. He is the Appolo amongst all breeds.
Almost square in build, this applies particularly to males. The length of the body (point osternum to point of buttocks) should not exceed height at withers in dogs by more than 5%, in bitches by more than 10%.
Anatomy and caracteristics of Great Dane
Skull : In harmony with the general appearance. Long, narrow, distinct, full of expression. Finely chiselled, specially under the eyes. Superciliary ridges well developed but not protruding. The distance from tip of nose to stop and from stop to the lightly defined occipital bone should be as equal as possible. The upper lines of muzzle and skull should run parallel. The head must appear narrow seen from the front with bridge of nose as broad as possible. Cheek muscles only slightly defined and in no way protruding.Stop : Clearly defined.
Nose : Well developeded, rather broad than round with large nostrils. Must be black with the exception of harlequins (white with black patches). In these a black nose is desired but a butterfly nose (black with pink patches) or flesh coloured nose is tolerated. In blue dogs the colour of the nose is anthracite (diluted black).Muzzle : Deep and as rectangular as possible. Well defined corners of lips. Dark pigmented lips. In harlequins not totally pigmented or flesh coloured lips are tolerated. Jaws/Teeth : Well developed broad jaws. Strong sound and complete scissor bite (42 teeth according to the dentition formula).
Eyes : Of medium size with lively friendly intelligent expression. As dark as possible, almond shaped with close fitting lids. In blue dogs slightly lighter eyes are tolerated. In harlequins light eyes or two differently coloured eyes are to be tolerated. Ears : Naturally pendant, set on high, of medium size, front edges lying close to cheeks.
Long, clean, muscular. Well formed set on, tapering slightly towards the head, with arched neckline. Carried upright but inclined slightly forward.
Withers : The highest point of the strong body. It is formed by the points of the shoulder blades which extend beyond the spinal processes.
Back : Short and firm, in almost straight line falling away imperceptibly to the rear.
Loins : Slightly arched, broad, strongly muscled.
Croup : Broad, well muscled. Sloping slightly from hipbone to tail set, imperceptibly merging into the tailset.
Chest : Reaching to the elbows. Well sprung ribs, reaching far back. Chest of good width with marked forechest.
Underline and belly : Belly well tucked up towards rear, forming a nicely curved line with the underside of the brisket.
Reaching to the hocks. Set on high and broad, tapering evenly towards tip. In repose hanging down with natural curve. When dog is alert or moving, carried slightly sabre-like but not markedly above the backline. Bristle hair on tail undesirable.
Shoulders : Strongly muscled. The long, slanting shoulder blade forms an angle of 100 to 110 degrees with the upper arm.
Upper arm : Strong and muscular, close fitting, should be slightly longer than the shoulder blade.
Elbows : Turned neither in nor out.
Forearm : Strong, muscular. Seen from front and side, completely straight.
Carpus : Strong, firm, only slightly standing out from the structure of the forearm.
Pastern : Strong, straight when seen from the front, seen from the side, barely slanting forwards.
Front feet : Rounded, well arched, well-knit toes (cat feet). Nails short, strong and as dark as possible.
The whole skeleton is covered by strong muscles which make the croup, hips and upper thighs appear broad and rounded. The strong well angulated hind legs, seen from behind, are set parallel to the front legs.
Upper thigh : Long, broad, very muscular.
Stifles : Strong, positioned almost vertically under the hip joint.
Lower thigh : Long, of approximately the same length as the upper thigh. Well muscled.
Hocks : Strong, firm, turning neither in nor out.
Metatarsus : Short, strong, standing almost vertical to the ground.
Hind feet : Rounded, well arched, well-knit (cat feet).
Nails : short, strong and as dark as possible.
GAIT / MOVEMENT
Harmonious, lithe, ground covering, slightly springy. Legs must be parallel in movement coming and going.
Tight fitting. In solid colours, well pigmented. In harlequins, the distribution of pigment mainly corresponds to the markings.
Very short, dense, smooth and close lying, glossy.
The Great Dane is bred in three separate colour varieties: Fawn and brindle, harlequin and black, blue and mantle.
Fawn : Light gold fawn to deep gold fawn. Black mask desired. Small white marks on chest and toes undesirable.
Brindle : Basic colours, light to deep gold fawn with black stripes as regular and clearly defined as possible, running with the direction of the ribs. Black mask desired. Small white markings on chest and toes are undesirable.
Harlequin (white with black splashed patches) : Basic colour pure white, preferably with no ticking. Pure black patches well distributed all over the body, having the appearance of being torn. Grey or brownish patches undesirable
Black : Jet black, white markings permitted. Included here are « Manteltiger » in which the black covers the body like a coat (“mantel”) or blanket and muzzle, throat, chest, belly, legs and tip of tail may be white. Also dogs with basic white colour and large black patches so called “Plattenhunde”.
Blue : Pure steel blue, white markings on chest and feet permitted.
Mantle : The color shall be black and white with a solid black blanket extending over the body; black skull with white muzzle; white blaze is optional; whole white collar is preferred; a white chest; white on part or whole of forelegs and hind legs; white tipped black tail. A small white marking in the blanket is acceptable, as is a break in the white collar.
Height at withers : Dogs at least 80 cm,Bitches at least 72 cm.
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
Lack of male or female characteristics, lack of balance, too light, too coarse in built.
Lacking self-confidence, nervous, easily provoked.
Lines of head not parallel, apple head, wedge shaped head, too little stop; too prominent cheek muscles.
Pointed, lacking flews, lips too pendulous. Bridge of nose concave (dish shaped), convex (roman nose), falling away in front part (eagle nose).
Any deviation from a complete set of teeth (only the missing of both PM1 in the lower jaw may be tolerated). Irregular position of individual incisors as long as the bite remains otherwise correct), teeth too small.
Slack lids, haw too red. Light, piercing, amber coloured eyes. Wall eyes or differently coloured eyes in all solid coat colours. Eyes too wide apart or slit eyes. Eyes protruding or too deeply set.
Set on too high or too low. Standing off from the sides of the head or flat lying.
Short thick neck, ewe neck, throatiness or excess of dewlap.
Sway back, roach back. Too long in back. Topline rising towards rear.
Falling away steeply or completely flat.
Too thick, too long or too short, set on too low or too highly carried above the back line. Hook tail or curled tail as well as tail carried sideways. Tail which is damaged, thickened at the tip or has been docked.
Flat or barrel-shaped ribs. Lack of width or depth of chest. Too strongly protruding breastbone.
Belly line not sufficiently tucked up. Teats not sufficiently retracted.
Insufficient angulation. Light bone, weak muscles. Stance not vertical.
Loose or loaded. Upright shoulder blade.
Loose, turning in or out.
Bent, enlarged above pastern.
Enlarged, markedly weak or knuckling over.
Too sloping or too upright.
Too much or too little angulation. Cow hocked, close together or open hocked when standing.
Exaggerated large or unstable.
Flat, splayed, long. Dewclaws.
Covering too little ground, lack of freedom in action. Frequent or constant pacing. Lack of
co-ordination between front and hind movement.
Double coat (coarse, short coat), dull coat.
Grey fawn, blue fawn, isabella (cream) or sooty fawn colour.
Basic colour silver blue or isabella. Washed-out streaks.
Blue-grey ticked basic colour. Large fawn-grey or blue-grey parts in the patches.
Fawn, brown or blue-black colour.
Fawn or black-blue colour.
SERIOUS FAULTS :
Temperament : Shyness.
Jaws/Teeth : Pincer bite.
Eyes : Ectropion, entropion.
Tail : Kinky tail.
ELIMINATING FAULTS :
Temperament : Aggressiveness, fear-biting.
Nose : Liver coloured; split nose.
Jaws/Teeth : Overshot, undershot, wry mouth.
Fawn or brindle dogs with white blaze, white collar, white feet or socks and white tip of tail.
Blue dogs with white blaze, white collar, white feet or socks or white tip of tail.
Harlequin dogs : White without any black (albinos), deaf.
So called Porcelain tigers (dogs that show predominantly blue, grey, fawn or brindle patches)
So called “Grautiger” (dogs that have a basic grey colour with black patches).
Height : Below minimum height.
N.B. : Male animals should have two apparently normally developed testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
The Great Dane Temperament
Friendly, loving and devoted to his owners, specially to the children. Reserved towards strangers. Required is a confident, fearless, easily tractable, docile companion and family dog with high resistance to provocation and without aggression.
Great Dane Training – Walking Nicely To Heal
Great Dane training is something you need to start in the early stages of your dog’s life. When he is a puppy, your Great Dane requires proper obedience training so you will have the right control over him when he is fully grown. Furthermore, a well trained Great Dane is a happy dog, as this breed loves to work, and is eager to follow the commands of his master.
Great Dane training begins and ends with you. Therefore, what you teach your Great Dane and when you teach it, has an influence on the dog he will grow up to be.
You should take the time to enroll your Dane into an obedience school as soon as he’s of an acceptable age. However, until then, there are a few basic Great Dane training techniques you can teach your dog yourself, such as how to walk nicely.
The following is how you can go about teaching your Dane how to walk nicely:
1. Put your Great Dane on a 4-foot leash and take him out for a walk. However, unlike previous walking experiences, this time your goal is to no longer tolerate your dog pulling on the leash. Therefore, every time your Dane pulls the leash, immediately stop walking by planting your feet firmly on the ground. Do not move. As long as your dog continues to pull remain still. As soon as your Dane stops tugging on the leash, immediately praise him and continue to walk again.
2. Each time your dog pulls on the walk, put your “walking nicely” Great Dane training rules into effect and stop. Once he stops tugging, be sure to praise him right away, and give him the occasional treat to reinforce the fact that you are pleased with his behavior.
3. Should your Great Dane prove resistant to your training methods, instead of stopping each time he pulls, quickly turn and begin walking in the opposite direction. This sudden change in direction will startle your dog. Continue to change directions until his pulling becomes less severe. Then resort back to the stopping method.
4. Finally, if you really find teaching your Great Dane to walk nicely is proving to be more difficult than you thought, you can also consider using a head halter. A head halter is not a muzzle, it is more like a bridle a horse wears. Essentially, the head halter forces a dog’s body to follow the head. It is not possible for a dog to pull while wearing one.
With consistency, encouragement, and plenty of praise for a job well done, you’ll discover that Great Dane training isn’t impossible, whether you are teaching him to walk nicely, sit or fetch.
Great Dane Recommended Maintenance
Minimal grooming is necessary with the short coat of the Great Dane. Simply brush, comb, and use dry shampoo when necessary. Bathing this dog is a huge chore because of its size. It’s easier to keep up with the grooming on a week-to-week basis. The Great Dane is considered to be an average shedder. Trim the nails regularly. Daily moderate exercise, such as a good walk or energetic play, is necessary for this breed. It should spend plenty of time outdoors, as it is typically inactive indoors, but it may get cold in the winter and should not be outside for long periods of time. A home with a fenced-in back yard is ideal. The fence should be at least six feet tall to prevent the dog from jumping over it. Inside, the dog should have soft bedding with plenty of room to stretch out and sleep. As with other large breeds, the Great Dane is a short-lived breed: generally having a life span of six to eight years. They also have health problems associated with large breeds such as bloat and hip dysplasia.
Great Dane Health
Life span: 6 – 8 years
Major concerns: gastric torsion, CHD, cardiomyopathy
Minor concerns: CVI (wobbler’s syndrome), cataract, elbow dysplasia, osteosarcoma, OCD, HODO
occasionally seen: glaucoma, VWD
Suggested tests: cardiac, elbow, hip, eye, blood
Great Dane Care
Grate Dane care isn’t something you need to worry about if you do it on a regular basis. Although it may seem this breed would be a challenge to take care of, the truth is they don’t present the same grooming challenge that is common with smaller dog breeds.
However, there is more to Great Dane care then simply grooming, feeding and exercising him. There is the medical aspect you need to consider.
Your Great Dane needs to be taken for yearly Vet checkups to ensure he is healthy. During these checkups your dog may receive vaccinations for common illnesses that pose high health risks. Just like humans, dogs need vaccinations to protect them from deadly or debilitating diseases.
The following are some common diseases dogs are vaccinated for that you should be aware when considering Great Dane care:
Canine Distemper – This is a viral disease that is highly contagious. It affects a dog’s respiratory, gastrointestinal and nervous systems. It is spread through contact with the urine or feces of an infected animal, or through the air. This disease can be fatal.
Infectious Canine Hepatitis – This is a viral disease that is spread by a dog coming in contact with an infected animals feces, urine or saliva. It affects the kidneys, the cells lining the blood vessels, and the liver.
Leptospirosis – This is an exceptionally contagious bacterial disease that can spread to your Dane if he came in contact with an infected animals urine, saliva or nasal secretions.
Parvovirus – A common and deadly viral infection among puppies. It is spread by dogs coming in contact with an infected dog’s feces, vomit or blood.
Parinfluenza – This is an extremely contagious virus that spreads quickly among dogs that are kept in close living conditions. This disease can seriously damage a dog’s respiratory system and lead to death.
Rabies – A deplorable disease that you’ve likely heard of when researching Great Dane care. This nasty illness attacks the dog’s central nervous system causing extreme pain, paralysis and death. Rabies is spread through the bite of an infected animal. There is no cure for Rabies. All dogs with rabies are euthanized.
Coronavirus – This is an extremely contagious viral infection that affects the gastrointestinal tract. Like many of the others, this disease is spread to a dog when he comes in contact with the blood, vomit or feces of an infected animal.
Bordetella – Common airborne bacterial infection that is usually spread to dogs when they are exposed to infected dogs at dog shows, field trials and in kennels.
Lyme Disease – This is a disease caused by a tick. It has various stages, and eventually attacks the major organs of the body and can lead to death.
As part of Great Dane Care, your Dane should receive all of the vaccinations he needs as puppy, and throughout his adult life. Your Vet will inform you when your dog is due for a vaccination. Don’t be afraid to as your Vet questions about the vaccines. Since they are important to your Danes well being, you should take the time to find out why vaccinations are so important.
Feeding Great Dane
Much of what is contained in this FAQ is practical experience and not based on hard, scientific data. The ideas presented here are extracted from breeders and veterinarians who have experience with the breed. Where there are differing opinions among members of the Great Dane Mailing List, both sides of the issue are presented.
A. Protein Levels
There are two schools of thought when it comes to the amount of protein Great Danes should receive. Both agree that dogs that are through growing should be kept on a low protein diet, such as a maintenance diet, at protein levels of 23% or below. However, one group believes that puppies need high protein to grow, and the other believes high protein causes greater cases of growth disorders that the dogs may be genetically predisposed to.
1. As the majority of breeders and vets who are knowledgeable about the breed are now leaning toward always feeding low protein, I will discuss that first. This group believes that Danes should not be fed above 25% total protein. The reasoning is that higher protein results in more rapid growth, and thus more developmental problems, such as canine hip displaysia (CHD), panosteitis (pano), osteochondrosis dessicans, and wobblers syndrome. Some believe that even 25% is too high, feeding 23% or 20% protein. Note that these numbers are for dry kibble, not for canned food. The percent protein for canned food must be adjusted to compensate for a high moisture level, as will be discussed in section D.
Practical experience has shown fewer developmental problems, and the dogs on these low protein diets still achieve their full expected growth potential.
2. The other group of breeders and vets come from the more traditional school which want to make sure growing puppies have enough protein to build muscle and bone properly. Usually, these people will feed puppy foods which may contain 30% protein or more. The idea is that collagen deposition and muscle growth all require lots of protein.
Both groups agree that high protein is bad for older dogs. The higher protein puts a greater load on the kidneys, and therefore may cause kidney problems that can be avoided. High protein diets in normal adults are not doing any good to the body except increasing the work load of the kidney. The body does not store protein, so protein which is not utilized is a waste.
In addition, some believe that a diet that is too high in protein causes gas, which in Danes may cause bloat and torsion of the stomach.
B. Feeding Schedules
It is very important that Danes be fed multiple times per day, as this will reduce the incidence of bloat and torsion.
Puppies are generally fed three or four times per day until they are about 6 months old. Many dogs will let you know when they are ready to go down to two meals by not eating as much at mid-day. Dogs should never be fed less than two times per day.
Free feeding is an alternative to feeding schedules, but can result in problems. Some dogs will eat whatever you leave out, so that destroys the purpose of free feeding. Other dogs will have house soiling problems. Dogs like to be on a schedule, and feeding your dog at certain times of the day will help him look up to you as the master.
Also, be sure that the dog has not exercised for at least 30 minutes before eating and do not exercise him for one and one-half to two hours after eating. This will make sure his stomach is settled during the critical time around his meal during which he is very susceptible to bloat.
Supplementation of Danes' food is discouraged, although there are exceptions. The two exceptions I know about are vitamins C and E.
Calcium supplementation is too be avoided, along with most other minerals. Some vets tend to believe that just because these dogs get so big, their body needs extra calcium to build bones. But modern foods are balanced to provide the necessary level of calcium, and additional calcium could contribute to bone problems and bloat. Other minerals, such as phosperous may contribute to growing disorders such as Wobblers, if supplemented.
Some breeders believe that high doses of Vitamin C may prevent the incidence of growing disorders, such as hip displaysia. The dosage is 1000 mg - 2000 mg per day of a Vitamin C salt. As excess Vitamin C is excreted in the urine, it is unlikely that this supplementation can do any harm.
Vitamin E is often used as a preservative now, and is considered safer than other chemical preservatives, such as Ethoxyquin. Vitamin E is though to lead to a healthier coat. Foods that do not include Vitamin E may be supplemented.
If you add "natural" foods to your Danes kibble, such as turkey, brown rice, other meats, etc. beware that you are throwing off the nutritional balance of the food. Your Dane will be eating less vitamins and minerals, and so supplementation may be recommended to balance the diet.
However, calculating the correct supplementation is probably only for the very experienced, as will be explained in section D.
D. Calculating Nutrient Levels in Moist Foods.
This is one of the areas of the greatest misunderstanding in the dog world. Very few dog owners understand how to calculate the real amounts of nutrients their dogs receive, although for most people it is not important.
The problem is that the foods we feed our dogs are not composed only of nutrients. In fact, some of the foods we feed them are composed almost entirely of something completely non-nutritive- WATER! That's right, water has no nutritional value, and yet may make up 75% or more of canned dog foods.
Here is where the real problem is: Say Joe Dane Owner receives instructions from his pup's breeder to feed the dog 20% protein. So, he goes out and buys a bag of puppy food at 30% protein, 10% moisture, and some cans of puppy food at 10% protein, 75% moisture. If he mixes equal amounts of the two, he will get a (30% +10%) / 2 =20% protein food, right? WRONG!
The percent protein compared to the nutrients in the dry food is (30% / 90%) *100= 33.3%. The nutritive percent protein of the canned food is (10% / 25%) *100 = 40%. By adding canned food to the dry, Joe will acutally be _increasing_ the protein content.
But, Joe is still not giving the dog (33.3% + 40%) / 2 = 36.6% protein, because the equal weight of canned food has so much less nutritive material. In fact, the total nutritive percent protein will be ( .9 * 33.3 + .25 * 40) / (.9 +.25) = 34.75% protein.
It is also important to note that these calculations involve the mass or weight of the food, and not the volume.
These are the main reasons it is very hard to supply dogs with a homemade diet or a diet supplemented with meat, rice, or anything else. It is difficult to determine the actual nutrients the dog is getting, and thus difficult to ensure the dog is receiving the proper balanced diet.
E. Ingredients in Dog Foods
Its helpful to learn a bit about how to read and interpret the labels on dog foods. Poultry meal and poultry by-products are most definately not the same ingredient. Any ingredient which is designated as "by-products" is most likely stuff like beaks, feathers and feet, basically unusable protein sources for dogs. Poultry meal means that the whole chicken has been utilized.
Also, protein levels can be misleading depending on the source of the protein. A dog food label can list 28% protein but if it's derived from leather dust, the dog will never be able to utilize it. The first ingredient listed on the label must be the highest percentage of the food. Therefore if you see poultry meal as the first ingredient, the chances are that it's a high quality food. If grains make up the bulk of the first ingredients, beware. This is not to say that just because grain is the first listed ingredient, that the food is no good. Many manufacturer's offer different types of foods for different stages of life. The "Senior" foods need to be lower in protein because of kidney problems as dogs age. This almost necessitates using lower protein ingredients such as grains as the bulk of the food.
Soy is to be avoided in foods for Danes, as it can cause gas in dogs. In Danes, gas may contribute to bloat, so foods high in soy should not be used.
F. Weight Control and Feeding Amounts
It is considered very important to keep Danes weight low. Any excess weight, especially on growing dogs, may cause developmental problems such as growing pains and joint problems.
Even though you feed the best diet in the world, you must also control the dogs weight. Puppies should be on the lean side. You should _always_ be able to feel his ribs. During the summer, ribs should be plainly visible. They should be less so during the winter. If he's rolly polly, has rolls of skin, he's too fat.
At seven weeks most pups are consuming around 1 1/2 to 2 cups of kibble 3 times a day. This will increase from week to week as the puppy grows. Most pups top out at around 4 cups, twice daily by the time they're 4-6 months. However, dogs (males) will often eat more than bitches.
G. What CAN I Saftely Add to My Dog's Food
Some people add a little canned food, lean hamburger,cooked egg, cottage cheese, or yogurt occasionally. Others add some table scraps.
The key is to keep the content of these foods low compared to the dogs balanced diet. Also, adding table scraps or other food which changes from day to day will probably tend to cause the dog more digestive problems (gas, loose stool) than feeding the same diet each day.
H. My Dog Likes Fruit and Vegetables.!
That's fine, and fruit can be very good for him. Most fruits and vegetalbes are very high in moisture, so will have little contribution to his diet if not over fed. Many are good sources of fiber and vitamins, as well. So if he likes them,use them as treats. Dane owners have used apples, orange slices, grapes, berries, carrots, broccoli stalks, and many other fruits and vegetables as treats.
There are some food items which can be bad for your Dane though. Onions have a blood thinner which make them poisonous to dogs. Chocolate is poisonous to dogs as well. Also, acorns have a high tannic acid content which make them poisionous to dogs.
It is generally suggested to avoid giving your dog raw foods that you would not eat raw, such as eggs, poultry, and hamburger. In addition, some salmon contains a type of parasite that makes dogs sick.
I. Dog Biscuits (Cookies!) and Other Treats
Many dog owners use dog biscuits as treats, because they are good for your dogs teeth. In addition, the commercial brands are nutritionally balanced.
For other treats, such as for training, you can use turkey dogs sliced thin and microwaved to remove the moisture. Most dogs love them, and you won't mind keeping them in your mouth as much as most other treats!
The Great Dane Puppies
Searching for the Best Great Dane Puppies
If you are interested in owning a Great Dane, there is more to selecting Great Dane puppies than simply visiting a breeder and picking the cutest one. You need to know what to look for in relation to the breed standard.
First, you want to look at the Great Dane’s head. You’re looking to make sure that the head is proportioned and slightly narrow, and the skull is flat. The length of his head should be proportioned to the rest of the body.
Next take a look at the muzzle of the Great Dane puppies. The muzzle should be long and fashioned with a black nose. However, if the Great Dane you are interested in has a harlequin coat, a pink nose is permissible. The nostrils of a Dane are large and wide, which gives their nose an abrupt look.
Examine the dog’s mouth by taking his snout in your hand and gently pulling the lips up and down. Great Dane puppies should have white teeth that form a perfect scissor bite. Teeth should be straight and set in strong jaws.
Observe the ears and eyes of the dog next. Great Danes have medium sized ears that are triangular in shape and are set high on their skull. The ears are folded forward. The medium sized eyes of the dog are deeply set in the head, and do not appear round. Although the eyes of Danes should be dark, harlequin coat colors may have odd or wall eyes (milky film over the cornea that gives eyes a glazed look).
After fully inspecting the head of the dog, you should then turn your attention to the body. The Great Dane has a large strong body that features well sprung ribs, a strong back and loins that are also strong and slightly arched. The coat on the body of Great Danes is short and dense. It has a very sleek look and does not appear rough. The coat color of Great Dane puppies may vary and can include: brindle, fawn, black, blue and mantle harlequin.
As far as the tail of the Great Dane is concerned, it is very thick at the base of the root, but tapers near the tip. The tail should be carried straight and level with the back. The tail should never curl towards the back or hang down. Tails are covered with the same short dense hair present on the rest of the body, and should not have any feathering.Lastly, you need to observe the dog’s legs, feet and gait. The forelegs of a Great Dane are perfectly straight and have large, flat bones. The hindquarters are exceptionally strong and muscular. This is where the Dane gets all of his galloping power. The hindquarters are long and have a good turn of stifle. The back legs do not turn in or out.
Great Dane puppies should have straight feet that do not turn in or out. They have well arched toes with strong curved nails. Their nails should be dark, except in Harlequins when light colored nails are permissible.
The Great Dane has a very free and high spirited walk. He carries his head high, and can cover a great deal of ground with one stride. Observe how Great Dane puppies move in the liter to make sure that none of them seem to favor a paw or leg. You will likely notice that they are off balanced when moving, but this is due to the fact that they are playful puppies in a constant state of growth.
Should you have a hard time seeing the breed standard in the Great Dane puppies you are observing, find out what the parents of the liter looks like, and base your opinions on them. The sire and dam of the liter will give you a perfect idea of what to expect when the puppies are fully grown.
Providing Your Great Dane Puppy with ID
Bringing your Great Dane puppy home is an experience you’ll want to make as special as possible. However, despite all of the fun you’ll have welcoming your puppy into your family, there are certain aspects you will need to take care of to ensure your dog stays safe and will always be able to find his way back to you when lost. Your Dane needs ID tags and registration.
The most popular form of identification for your Great Dane puppy is ID tags. Identification tags are an easy way for others to identify your dog should he become lost.
ID tags come in a variety of styles, shapes, colors and sizes. Therefore, you will be certain to find a tag that with suit the needs of your dog, as well as your own personal taste.
Although ID tags are a great form of identification, the disadvantage when using tags is they can fall off the dog or be removed. Therefore, if you feel you need a more permanent method to ensure the safety of your Great Dane puppy, you can consider Microchip or tattoo methods.
Microchips are contained inside capsules no bigger than a grain of rice. These capsules are inserted under your dog’s skin with a needle. The procedure is quick and no more bothersome to your dog than a regular vaccination. All of the information in relation to your dog is programmed inside the microchip, and is also placed in a national database. If your Great Dane should ever become lost, it will be easy to identify your dog.
The disadvantages of micro chipping your dog is not every shelter or rescue that may pick up your dog will have the necessary equipment need to scan your Dane’s chip. Furthermore, chips may be hard to detect, as they are known to move around your Dane’s body. If chips move, this will not harm your dog.
Tattoos are another form of identification. However, you need to know that this form of ID should not be done until your Great Dane puppy has matured into an adult. The reason is because you don’t want the tattoo to become distorted if skin should stretch during growth.
The ID number tattoo your Dane receives should be placed on an area of the dog’s body that will not be concealed by fur. Two ideal places include your dog’s inner thigh or earflap. Make sure you register the number with a national database, and check it every few years for fading.
Finally, regardless of the ID method your select for your Great Dane puppy, it is imperative that you always keep your contact information up-to-date. Should you move, make sure you contact the national database your dog is registered with, or if he has ID tags, get new ones.
Puppy Training - The Very First Day
Your puppy is still yearning for its littermates, puppy training may be scary, he may be frightened, scared and lonely. Take a day or two to simply spend time with him, let him sniff, explore, and simply check-out his new surroundings.
Introduce him to all of your family members, pets, and creatures within your home. More than likely, the exhausted confused pup will fall asleep in your arms, tired from the new excitement.
Now that your Great Dane puppy has slept and rested, it's time to introduce a brand new den.
This den, actually a create for Great Danes, will soon become a favorite place for your puppy to sleep, rest and retreat for safety and comfort.
The puppy crate crate will also help you immensely with puppy house breaking and potty training.
When he's pooped out from play and napping during the day, put him in the crate, always in the crate for napping and sleeping.
By training your puppy that his crate is a safe place to rest, sleep, and relax, he will go there often, even when you and family are up and about. Let the kids know to leave him alone while he's in the crate, that's his safe place.
Now you're already on the right track with the puppy crate, now your baby dog has a safe place to run and go to when he is tired, scared or afraid. What comes next may be difficult,, your Great Dane puppy now needs to adjust to new surroundings away from its mom, brothers and sisters. What usually happens next will be the most difficult for you and your family.
The first few nights with your new dog can be trying. Most all puppies in a new environment are going to whine and make noise well into the night and early morning. Being confused, afraid, with no mommy to cuddle I can't blame them. Since you took the time training your puppy to accept its new den, things should get better soon.
If your dog whines at night and it probably will, you should ignore it. Don't give in to the antics, this will only teach the dog that making a ruckus will get your attention. Be sure to keep the same routine every day, especially before bedtime. This is very important, have your evening playtime, bedtime drink (not to much water), bathroom break, then off to bed, puppy crate time.
If the noise starts, ignore it, I'm serious, we already know the dog's needs are met so be strong and ignore it. Sometimes a small radio or wind-up clock near the crate can calm the nervous dog. This can be frustrating so it's good practice to begin crating your Great Dane puppy away from your bedrooms. Persistence is key, most dogs will soon see their puppy crate as a safe retreat and resting place.
After the first few nights, the young Great Dane puppy should remain quit in its crate, any nighttime noise after that is probably a call for the bathroom. Once the dog's crate becomes his bed and "his" place within your home, the crate is going to be key to potty training your puppy.
A baby Dane can cause serious household damage, you should always have your eye on him when he's out and about within the home. Always enforce the house rules and keep a watchful eye!
If you can't catch and correct your Great Dane puppy in the act of bad behavior, don't bother. Your close watch is key, when you catch him in the act, this exact moment is the time for a stern "No" and redirection.
Be sure to keep lots of chewy toys around. If you catch your pup chewing on a shoe or furniture, use your command and give him his toys, give lots of kind praises and love when he starts chewing his toys. Your Great Dane puppy will soon learn what he should and shouldn't do.
Don't let the pup jump up on you or mouth you, this will become a problem as it gets bigger, and it will faster than you think. Correct and redirect your puppy whenever you catch him misbehaving, praise and reward him once he obeys.
Remember, a puppy is only being itself, it does not mean to misbehave and actually doesn't even know how to misbehave. It's up to you from the very start to teach the pup proper behavior.
Don't get frustrated!, be patient and persitent, you will succeed!